A hike to Kunashir with an ascent to Tyata

In the morning we go to the airport and fly to Kunashir, the southernmost Kuril Island. 

The name means "black island" and indicates its nature — dark coniferous forests, dark soils, and four active volcanoes (three of which we will go to). 

The island's belonging to Russia is disputed by Japan, which considers it as part of its Namuro district. The question of who appeared earlier in the Southern Kuril Islands and, in particular, in Kunashir — Russians or Japanese — is still controversial. But, this is history, and you and I, without hesitation, immediately hit the road! 

After checking the border passes, we will be taken to the Devil's Finger, where we will set up camp. 

The damn finger is a kekur, a remnant that looks like a finger. It seems that someone big and gigantic dived into the sea and shows an outstretched finger with a sharp nail. 

The rock is completely sheer, the height of the structure is as high as a five-story house. And most importantly, there are no other rocks and cliffs around at all. They say that after the earthquake of 1994, the Devil's finger lost part of the phalanx and lost its former grace, but it is still impressive! 

Lunch, a radial walk to Cape Sukacheva, return to the camp, dinner and acquaintance.

• flight 1.5 hours;
• overnight in a tent;
• there is a connection and mobile Internet;
• 4 km without backpacks.

After breakfast, we will take a boat ride under the Tyata volcano. 

We distribute ourselves among the boats in small batches, the journey is long – about 2.5 hours, a real sea adventure. 

We advise you in advance to stock up on Dramina for those who are seasick, as well as how to insulate yourself. 

Along the way, we can see seals, dolphins and even killer whales. We set up camp on the seashore. We are preparing for tomorrow's ascent. Early lights out.

• 2-3 hours by sea by boat;
• overnight in tents;
• there is no connection and no Internet.

We begin our ascent to the Tyata volcano (1819 meters). 

The volcano is one of the top 10 most beautiful volcanoes in the world. It is the second highest volcano on the Kuril Islands and the highest point of Kunashir Island. 

Climbing the volcano is not the easiest and will take 10-12 hours in total (6-8 hours ascent, 4-6 hours descent) – despite the fact that we go without large backpacks, good physical training is required. 

The ascent begins through a dense forest, then the famous slag fields with dried trees begin. In July 1973, there was a powerful eruption of the Tyati volcano and the forest died. At an altitude of 650 m, we reach the Brave crater – in good weather, the views from here are simply stunning, in bad weather – fascinating. 

After the crater, the most difficult part of the climb to the ridge (1400 m) begins. From the ridge, the ascent to the young cone will take about 40 minutes. 

And now we have reached the highest point of 1819 m. The earth is warm – there is a clear feeling that the volcano lives and breathes. 

We take pictures, relax, and have a snack. 

On the way back, we will go down to the wreckage of the helicopter that crashed as a result of the disaster in 1975. The descent is very steep and loose, we observe all precautions. 

After reaching the old crater, we return to the camp the same way.

• 15 km without backpacks, climb about 1800 m;
• overnight in a tent;
• It can catch a connection at the top of a volcano.

We are moving back from Cape Rubezhny to the Rogachevka River along the coast. 

There will be small fords, sand, rocks and dirt roads. The day is difficult and long, but in the evening you can exhale, no more such long transitions are expected.

• 20 km under the backpack;
• there is no connection and no Internet.

We continue along the coast, climb a small ridge and descend to the coastline. 

Along the way, we are waiting for several not very deep fords through tributaries. In the evening we come to the Chaika River, where you can relax and bask in the hot springs.

• 16 km under the backpack;
• there is no connection and no Internet.

In the morning, we will soak in the hot springs a little more, then we will travel about 5 km to the place where the transfer will pick us up. 

We will visit the administration of the Kurilsky Nature Reserve, where we will be solemnly awarded certificates of ascent to the highest volcano of the Kuril Islands. 

Then we will go to the foot of the Golovnin volcano. A couple of hours of climbing through the most beautiful forest and we are at the cordon, where we set up camp. A walk through the caldera of the volcano awaits us tomorrow.

• 8 km under the backpack;
• there is a connection and the Internet;
• The transfer takes 1 hour.

Today we will fully dedicate the day to the Golovnin volcano and its caldera. We walk around the neighborhood, because there is something to see! 

We go to the Boiling Lake. We will swim in warm streams and a Hot lake. It is obvious why these lakes got such a name – the activity of the volcano is still ongoing. 

Golovnin volcano is low, only 541m, but it is famous for its caldera, with a diameter of almost 5 km! At the bottom of the caldera there are 4 small volcanic domes, 2 explosive craters, lakes, hot springs and mud boilers. The volcano last erupted in 1998.

• 10 km without backpacks;
• there is no connection and no Internet;
• overnight in a tent.

We assemble the camp and go to the road, where we will be transferred to the 15th kilometer. 

We leave our backpacks, take the most necessary things and go light on the ascent of the Mendeleev volcano. The ascent will take about 5 hours. A path through the bamboo thickets awaits us. 

After 2 hours, we find ourselves in a sulfate field, observe powerful gas emissions and loud noise. Here are some of the most gigantic fumaroles in the world. 

A little more and we reach the highest point of the Mendeleev volcano (887 meters). The way up is not easy, you will need to climb the roots, climb a steep path. But the views that will open up will compensate for all the difficulties. 

Descent to the place where the backpacks were left. 

After a short rest, we continue our journey with our belongings along the pleasant Stolbovskaya eco-trail. We set up camp on the seashore.

• 10 km (4 km under backpacks and 6 km without backpacks);
• overnight in a tent;
• there is no connection and no Internet.

Cape Columnar is a business card of Kunashir, protected by UNESCO heritage. 

The cape is composed of layers of basalt lavas of the Mendeleev volcano in the form of 5 and 6 faceted columns of different sizes. The place is impressive! 

We walk along the cape, take pictures. 

We return to the camp.

• 12 km without backpacks;
• overnight in a tent;
• there is no connection and no Internet.

In the morning, we assemble the camp and move to the village of Tretyakov, from where a transfer will pick us up and take us to the airport. 

We say goodbye to Kunashir. 

An hour and a half in flight and we are back on Sakhalin. The transfer takes us to the hostel. 

We rest, walk in the evening Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

• 5 km under the backpack;
• there is a connection and the Internet;
• overnight at the hostel.

A spare day in case the plane is delayed from Kunashir. If everything goes according to plan and the weather conditions are favorable, on this day we go on a boat trip to the Aniva Lighthouse – the main attraction of Sakhalin. 

We leave for the village of Novikovo to go by boat to the very south of the Tonino-Aniva Peninsula. The lighthouse was installed by the Japanese in 1939 on the small Sivuchya rock, near the inaccessible rocky cape Aniva. 

The cold Sea of Okhotsk and the warm Aniva Bay are found here, so fogs and strong winds are not uncommon. The height of the lighthouse is 31 meters, the tower has 9 floors. At the moment, the lighthouse is abandoned and does not work. 

After visiting the lighthouse, we will set off on our way back and stop for a snack in the area of Marble Cape. During sea crossings, we can meet sea lions, seagulls, seals, dolphins, whales and killer whales. 

We return to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk around 6 p.m. Dinner at a cafe or hostel.

• overnight at the hostel;
• meals in the cafe;
• there are connections and the Internet.

Saying goodbye to the Far East, flying home. 

If desired, you can stay on Sakhalin for a few more days and see the sights that are not included in our program.